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Traditional climbing

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Danger: Louis Parkinson Tries Trad Climbing

Yes that's right, on part three of our Louis Vs Canada series he has a go at trad climbing. Usually known for powerful dynos, without using his feet, how will Louis cope with crack climbing and fiddly trad gear?

Check out Loui's La Sportiva shoes:

Glenmore Lodge - How to trad climb

Visit our website or call us on 01479 861256

Al Halewood takes you through all the important things you need to know about traditional lead climbing.
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Building Your Trad Climbing Rack | Climbing Daily Ep.861



On this week’s Friday Gear Show, Matt was unleashed on the EpicTV Shop’s big wall of shiny gear to pick some items that you might need for your trad rack. There is a vast array of gear out there designed to fit into every size crack or hole, but we are focusing on the first few items you need. Remember to comment below with your trad rack set up for you're chance to win a Wild Country Friend. If you want to check out the gear in the video, click the links below:

Nuts:
Cams:
Slings:
Quickdraws:
Nut Key:

To watch the full videos of the Climbing Daily mash up, click here:

Building Your Trad Climbing Rack | Climbing Daily Ep.861

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Essentials of Climbing: Trad Climbing

Trad is short for traditional climbing, or the very origins of the sport where determined men figured out how to attack sheer rock faces with harnesses, ropes and pitons. In this fun and informative video, Eastern Mountain Sports Brand Ambassador and professional climber Joe Kinder breaks down the evolution of trad climbing with a special emphasis on how far the gear has advanced. Special thanks to TNF athlete Emily Harrington for showing the world how trad climbing is done.

If you're ready to give rock climbing a try but don't know where to start, visit to find an EMS Climb School near you!
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How to lead a trad route

How to lead a trad route. For more instructional films from the BMC, check out the BMC TV Skills Channel:

We're the BMC. Climb walls, rocks, hills, ice or mountains? Join us.

Rock Climbing The Coffin in Little Cottonwood Canyon - 5.9 Trad Route

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Czech Trad Climbing - 150 Feet With No Metal Pro

Trad Czech climbing. Climbers do not use bolts, hexes, cams, friends and chalk. They are secured only by knots tied on slings and small pieces of rope placed inside cracks. Climber here missed all six bolts on his way up! He placed more than 10 knots as protection.
Watch in HD! Warning: Slow TV!

Wild Country Crack School - Episode 1 - Finger Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker

Wild Country 'Crack School' is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. Over six episodes the guys cover all widths of crack: Fingers, Hands, Fists and Offwidths as well as looking at the skills of gear placement and taping up.
Designed for those who know next to nothing about crack climbing and who want to make their first steps, the videos are made to illustrate what the guys think are the most pertinent points for starting out on each size of crack. They look at how to use hands and feet in the crack as well as gear and overall tips on technique and the way to approach each type of crack.
Importantly, and often overlooked, is the fact that these 'crack' techniques not only allow you to climb routes defined as cracks but this new knowledge makes you a more rounded climber. So if faced with a short section of crack, or a corner or groove you have an armoury and variety of ways of placing your hands to keep you going. These techniques therefore are incredibly important if you are making a transition from indoors to out, when holds move from 'sticking out' to 'going in' and thrusting, poking, camming and jamming become more important than simply grabbing and pulling. ¬
As Tom Randall says: 'Crack climbing well is a fantastic feeling and learning how to climb cracks opens up a world of routes, and indeed some of the best routes in the world: from Brown and Whillans' classics in the UK (try doing Cenotaph Corner or the Sloth without being able to jam) through to Yosemite and Indian Creek in the USA. And remember, the best climbers always have a variety of techniques at their disposal and having a variety of techniques always makes you a better climber!!'

James Pearson Repeats Italian E9 Trad Route "Is Not Always Pasqua" | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 196



It maybe be a bit chilly in most parts of Europe but in the reasonably balmy conditions of central Italy, James Pearson has made a free ascent of Mauro Calibani's route, 'Is not always Pasqua', at Collina di Interprete.

The route was first climbed in 2002 after the first ascensionist had watched the legendary film 'Hard Grit' and had been over to the Peak District to sample it for himself, before returning to Italy to climb 'Is not always'. He graded it E9 7a (hard) and it has only been repeated once before this, by Christian Brenna.


To check out the full video of James in action on the route go to Wild Country Vimeo Page:




James Pearson Repeats Italian E9 Trad Route 'Is Not Always Pasqua' | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 196

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Rappelling after trad climb

Setting up extended rappel system from fixed anchor
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How To Build And Equalise A Trad Climbing Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1174

During the recent Arc'teryx Big Mountain Weekend we had a masterclass from Mountain Guide Adrian Nelhams on anchor building. On todays show we look at the specifics of building an anchor and how to equalise it using the rope.

More information on Adrian's guiding:
Amazing deals on Trad gear:
Information on the Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival:

How To Build And Equalise A Trad Climbing Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1174

Traditional Climbing: 22. "Coarse & Buggy" (5.11b) in Joshua Tree | Climbing Tech Tips

Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video, CTT athlete Michelle Jung “sends” an ultra classic 5.11 route called Coarse & Buggy in California’s Joshua Tree National Park.


We hope you found this video helpful.

Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
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Jacopo Larcher on Rhapsody, Scottish E11 7a

In May 2016 Jacopo Larcher made the fifth ascent of Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody (E11 7a - 5.14b/c R), at Dumbarton rock.



Filmed and edited by Richard Felderer

Trad climbing in Utby - GoPro HD helmet

Climbing Utby Till in April 2012, Göteborg, Sweden.

Basic & Intermediate Outdoor Climbing: 16. Traditional Climbing - Racking for Lead

Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we look at ways for the lead climber to rack for their climb. Here are a few tips from our pros:

1. First, consult a guidebook, topo, or other climbers to find out what sizes and types of gear you need to safely protect the route.

2. Shoulder length slings can be worn over your shoulder, or you can shorten them to the size of a quickdraw, making them into an “alpine quickdraw” (see above video for demonstration).

3. Decide on a system to separate slings, quickdraws, stoppers and cams to prevent tangling.

- This could mean keeping shoulder length slings, or extendable “alpine quickdraws” on one side of your harness and cams on a sling on the other side of your body.
- You can also try racking cams on the front gear loops of your harness and draws in the back.
- Many organization methods exist, it’s personal preference!

4. A padded gear sling may be useful for racking and carrying gear. It can be used in addition to, or instead of, gear loops on your harness.

- This sling can make climbing wide cracks easier because you can swing big cams behind you and prevent them from getting stuck as you grovel up a squeeze chimney.
- This sling can also throw you off balance on a challenging slab climb if it suddenly slides off your back and falls between your knees.


We hope you found this video helpful.

Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
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Summer Solstice In Wales - A Trad Climbing Journey

The idea was simple, four super strong rock climbers on a trad-climbing trip to South Wales.

Jacopo Larcher, Barbara Zangerl, Roland Hemetzberger and Lara Neumeier head to Pembroke, a stunning coastline climbing venue with some very hard and beautiful Trad routes. Each one of them will find their personal project and battle for the send putting aside fear and adverse conditions.

The long days of the summer solstice in North Europe helps their desire for exploring, climbing and having fun with friends.

Get great deals on Trad climbing gear:

Summer Solstice In Wales - A Trad Climbing Journey

Rock Climbing Gear (my rack)

Here I give an overview of my modest climbing rack. This is what I carry most for the area in which I climb. This video is not intended to be a shopping list for new to trad climbers. this video is just showcasing the least amount of gear I will take with me to the area I climb the most. A few of these pieces are new, everything else is just well taken care of.

A follow up video can be seen here:


Black Diamond: momentum harness, 2 Positron screw gate, ATC -XP, Ascender, Rock lock screw gate, 4 wire gate carabiner, neutrino rack pack, Camalot C4; 1, 2 , Hexentrics; 6,7,8 , figure 8

C.A.M.P. USA: 2 Picto screw gate, Stopper set, 5 Orbit QuickDraws, Tri-cams; 3, 2.5, 1.5, 1, 0.5 , photon wire gate, Orbit screw gate

Wild Country mini rocks 00-0.75

Sterling Rope: Chain reactor, Autoblock 18inch, Rescue Runner

Mad Rock chalk bag, Concorde express quick draws, ultralight wire gate

ABC figure 8

2 - 25.4mm X 120cm webbing
2 - 25.4mm X 183cm webbing

Blue water 1 X 48 runner

5 - 18mm X 60cm sling
Metolius Nut tool

Evolv Bandit climbing shoes

Petzl: Attaché lock gate, helmet

Rock Exotica Soloist

Edelrid Python 10.2mm X 60m

Osprey Variant 40 liter

Basic Cam Placements

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Learn basic Cam placement.

These are my opinions seek professional instruction.

FREE - Big Wall Climbing in Yosemite with Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein

La Sportiva athlete Jorg Verhoeven makes the annual pilgrimage to Yosemite, California to attempt the 2nd free ascent of The Dihedral Wall (VI 5.14a) on El Capitan. This time, Jorg brings his wife, Katha Saurwein along, teaching her the ropes on her very own big wall free climb, The Final Frontier (5.13-) on the Fifi Buttress.

Produced by
Louder Than Eleven (

Directed by
Jon Glassberg

Original Score
Michael Wideburg (Fizzix Productions)

Climbing Serenity Crack

Climbing Serenity Crack in Yosemite Valley on 1/13/18. This was my first time climbing 5.10 trad.

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