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Traditional climbing


Trad Climbing the classic Gunks 10, Ridicullissima (Pitch 2 - 5.10d)

Finally, after many years of sitting on my to do list, I finally ticked this climb off, and with a *onsight! The only reason for the * was I was told there was a wasp nest at the big jug after the crux, thus I knew roughly where the crux was, that there was a jug there, and there would be wasps to greet me.

Fortunately, I never found the wasps.

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#gunks #gunksclimbing #tradclimbing

Multi-pitch climbing: set up a belay at a stance

How do you set up a belay at a stance on a multi-pitch trad route? Here's the answer.

Multi-pitch trad climbing skills is a series of short films produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors) and DMM.

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Vertigo (32/8b+) Australia's Hardest Trad Route

Definitely a true test piece, hard, scary, potentially dangerous. It's got moves that are at least V10 & V11 I would say. The gear is often quite small and intricate to place. If you get it wrong you are potentially going to hit the ground, he has put up the hardest trad route in the country! Zac Vertrees...

La Sportiva Edelrid climber Dan Fisher has finally sent the long standing Vertigo Project at Namadgi National Park! This proud crack line up a massive boulder was first aid climbed in the 70ies and has had many wanting to free the line, but with no success until now. Thanks to Ben Sanford Media, watch Dan's journey as he takes on the line and establishes Australia's hardest trad route to date. Who will be the next climber to send it?

#LaSportiva #ForYourMountain #Edelrid #MadeByEdelrid #ClimbGreen

Trad Climbing on The Spring - Pitch 2 at The Gunks, NY

Beautiful Exposed climbing with plenty of protection. Why not.

While I'm pretty sure I ended at what seemed to be the obvious belay ledge, it looks like there were two more lines to the top (Potential third pitch). Both looked pretty hard but this pitch also felt a little easy for 10b. Still a quality line.

Charlie Woodburn climbs E8 on most awesome wall of rock in the UK

Watch Charlie Woodburn make a second ascent of the amazing looking Skye Wall (E8 6b).

This hard trad route is located on the remote Coir' Uisg Buttress and was first climbed by Dave Birkett in 2007, who described it as the most awesome wall of rock in the UK.

Charlie first tried the route in 2011 with Tim Emmett and then went back in 2014 with filmmaker Dom Bush to climb the route and make this short film. The film was originally on BMC TV and is now here on YouTube.

#climbing #skye

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Climbing Indian Creek Mega Classics - Scarface/ Supercrack/ Incredible Handcrack

Climbing Indian Creek Mega Classics - Scarface/ Supercrack/ Incredible Handcrack

Fair Head: Possibly The Best Trad Crag In The World | Climbing Daily Ep.950

Yes, we know that is a controversial title, but Fair Head in Northern Ireland is certainly a world class trad climbing destination. Today we speak to the people who helped develop the crag and pioneered new routes up the towering cliffs.

Oh, and that sunset!

Want to get into Trad Climbing? Check out the gear:

Fair Head: Possibly The Best Trad Crag In The World | Climbing Daily Ep.950

Over 100 Years Of Trad Climbing History | Climbing Daily Ep 1425

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The Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival helps to preserve classic Lake District trad routes that might otherwise be forgotten. We travelled there to discover the history of climbing in the area. Speaking to expert Trevor Langhorne and climbing with Charlie Woodburn and Gilly McArthur we piece together the first ascent of 'Oliverson's Variation And Lyon's Crawl'. This classic VDiff on Gimmer Crag is a wonderful adventure, interesting for the modern climber...far more serious in 1907.

More information on the Lakeland Revival:

Thanks to Frank Grant for the photos. Email for Haskett Smith's biography (limited edition of 300).

Thanks also to the Fell and Rock Climbing Club For all their support:

Over 100 Years Of Trad Climbing History | Climbing Daily Ep 1425

Top 3 Trad Climbs Of 2014 | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 408

On today's show we're running down our top 3 trad climbs of 2014 and unsurprisingly that means more than one visit to the UK. Up first however is Italian climber Jacopo Larcher who secures third place this year for his repeat of the Beat Kammerlander route 'Prinzip Hoffnung (8b/+ E9/10) on the Bürser Platte at Vorarlberg, Austria. Mountain Blog were on hand to capture Jacopo in action on this fiercely technical test piece. ( Taking the runner up position is James Pearson who made a mental and physical comeback when he decided to return to the UK and repeat Dave McLeod's 'Rhapsody' E11, a route which he had publicly criticised in his youth. An undeniably great effort, but first place for 2014 goes to peak strong man and 'wideboy' Pete Whittaker who, in March this year, added a direct start to his 2013 route Baron Greenback at Wimberry Rocks. Already considered by many to be one of the last great lines on grit, Pete's direct start upped the ante both in terms of difficulty and danger. Thanks to Wild Country for the use of their footage:

Top 3 Trad Climbs Of 2014 | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 408

Summer Solstice In Wales - A Trad Climbing Journey

The idea was simple, four super strong rock climbers on a trad-climbing trip to South Wales.

Jacopo Larcher, Barbara Zangerl, Roland Hemetzberger and Lara Neumeier head to Pembroke, a stunning coastline climbing venue with some very hard and beautiful Trad routes. Each one of them will find their personal project and battle for the send putting aside fear and adverse conditions.

The long days of the summer solstice in North Europe helps their desire for exploring, climbing and having fun with friends.

Get great deals on Trad climbing gear:

Summer Solstice In Wales - A Trad Climbing Journey

Hardest Limestone Trad Route In Peak Finally Climbed By Tom Randall | Climbing Daily, Ep. 585

On today's show we talk to trad beast Tom Randall after his epic first ascent of 'Final Round'. The route is on Ilam Rock, in Dovedale in the Peak District, UK. Tom has given the route the grade of HXS 8a+/b, and is believed to be the hardest limestone Trad Route in the Peak District.

Tom is sponsored by 5/10 Climbing Shoes.

Thanks to for this use of the footage, and check with these guys for the movie release coming soon...

Hardest Limestone Trad Route In Peak Finally Climbed By Tom Randall | Climbing Daily, Ep. 585

James Pearson Repeats Italian E9 Trad Route Is Not Always Pasqua | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 196

It maybe be a bit chilly in most parts of Europe but in the reasonably balmy conditions of central Italy, James Pearson has made a free ascent of Mauro Calibani's route, 'Is not always Pasqua', at Collina di Interprete.

The route was first climbed in 2002 after the first ascensionist had watched the legendary film 'Hard Grit' and had been over to the Peak District to sample it for himself, before returning to Italy to climb 'Is not always'. He graded it E9 7a (hard) and it has only been repeated once before this, by Christian Brenna.

To check out the full video of James in action on the route go to Wild Country Vimeo Page:

James Pearson Repeats Italian E9 Trad Route 'Is Not Always Pasqua' | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 196

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Inis Mór: a trad climbing trip to the edge

BMC ambassador and pro-climber Steve McClure teams up with Irish legend Ricky Bell for a mission to the wild island of Inis Mór, off the coast of Ireland. The sheer cliffs are famous for their unrelenting sport routes, but can they succeed in their trad-climbing mission?

A ilm by Ben Pritchard for BMC TV in collaboration with our friends at Marmot.


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Stanage Plantation Trad Climbing

The Climbing Nomads - Vlog 76

Stanage Plantation - trad lead climbing on some classics including Right Unconquerable HVS 5a, Parasite HVS 5a, Paradise Wall HS 4b and Cleft Wall Route 2 VS 5a.
A cold day, both feeling the chills of early winter, but had an enjoyable day!

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Brett & Sophie

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Brett & Sophie, the Climbing Nomads; Chasing our dreams and sharing our journey around the UK and Europe in our motorhome looking for the best rock climbing, bouldering, and adventures!

We are not the best climbers in the world, or climbing the hardest grades but we are totally obsessed and have a life long passion for climbing. So whether we're trad climbing on sea cliffs or climbing long multi-pitch mountain routes, sport climbing in Spain or crushing boulder problems in Fontainebleau, join us on our adventures as we Vlog our life on the road!

We are both qualified rock climbing and mountain instructors, holding the UK Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor (MCI) qualification and are members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI).

We run bespoke climbing courses around the UK, so if you're interested in learning some new skills get in contact to arrange a course.

#Trad #Climbing #VanLifeClimbers

How to lead a trad route?

Want to learn trad climbing? Britain is the home of trad climbing, and you'll find all our skills clips here on the BMC YouTube channel.

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Happy climbing. And remember - if you're unsure of anything, head to the crags with an experienced friend or hire an instructor.

We're the BMC. Climb walls, rocks, hills, ice or mountains? Join us.

How To Build And Equalise A Trad Climbing Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1174

During the recent Arc'teryx Big Mountain Weekend we had a masterclass from Mountain Guide Adrian Nelhams on anchor building. On todays show we look at the specifics of building an anchor and how to equalise it using the rope.

More information on Adrian's guiding:
Amazing deals on Trad gear:
Information on the Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival:

How To Build And Equalise A Trad Climbing Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1174

Essentials of Climbing: Trad Climbing

Trad is short for traditional climbing, or the very origins of the sport where determined men figured out how to attack sheer rock faces with harnesses, ropes and pitons. In this fun and informative video, Eastern Mountain Sports Brand Ambassador and professional climber Joe Kinder breaks down the evolution of trad climbing with a special emphasis on how far the gear has advanced. Special thanks to TNF athlete Emily Harrington for showing the world how trad climbing is done.

If you're ready to give rock climbing a try but don't know where to start, visit to find an EMS Climb School near you!

Arc'teryx Trad Climbing Tips: Will Stanhope | Climbing Daily Ep.1459

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During the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in Chamonix we visited the trad climbing clinic. Pro climber Will Stanhope was there giving some expert advice, so here are Will's beginner trad climbing tips to progress your climbing.

Arc'teryx Trad Climbing Tips: Will Stanhope | Climbing Daily Ep.1459

Danger: Louis Parkinson Tries Trad Climbing

Yes that's right, on part three of our Louis Vs Canada series he has a go at trad climbing. Usually known for powerful dynos, without using his feet, how will Louis cope with crack climbing and fiddly trad gear?

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Saxon Sandstone: Epitome of Traditional Climbing

Recently I had the honor to try some Saxon Trad Climbing on their infamous Sandstone. Of course it was very epic. Here's a bit of documentation.

Saxon Sandstone: Epitome of Traditional Climbing by Mani the Monkey

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