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Sport climbing

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2019 USA Climbing: Sport & Speed Open National Championships | Finals

2019 Sport & Speed Open National Championships | Alexandria, VA | March 8-9, 2019

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About USA Climbing:
USA Climbing is recognized by the United States Olympic and Paralympic Committee as the National Governing Body for the sport of competition climbing. The organization manages the disciplines of Bouldering, Speed and Sport climbing as well as the Collegiate and Adaptive series. USA Climbing, a member federation of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), also hosts IFSC World Cup events and sends athletes to participate in the IFSC’s World Cup circuit and the World Climbing and Paraclimbing Championships.
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Sport Climbing - Tokyo 2020 | New Sport on the Block

Sport Climbing will make its Summer Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan! Hear from professional climber Sasha Digiulian about what this historic inclusion means for their sport and the Summer Games!

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Sport Climbing Gear Checklist || REI

Having the right climbing gear along for a day at the crag can be essential to a successful, fun outing. In this video, Miranda shows you what she likes to take along for a day of sport climbing. Watch the video then check out our handy, printable checklist here:

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At Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), we love to get outside and play, and we know first-hand the importance of quality outdoor gear. We stand behind all our products with a 100% satisfaction guarantee, and we design our own line of award-winning REI brand gear and clothing. Whether you're new to outdoor adventure or a seasoned pro, we gladly share our enthusiasm for our products—and the trails, slopes and waterways where we play.

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How To Clip When Sport Climbing With Jonathan Siegrist | Climbing Daily Ep.1133

Pick Of The Week:

Let's be honest, clipping and be a faff, especially when you are pumped out of your mind and about to fall off. Pro climber Jonathan Siegrist shows us his tips and trips for perfect clipping.

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How To Clip When Sport Climbing With Jonathan Siegrist | Climbing Daily Ep.1133
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How To Start Outdoor Climbing | Climbing Daily Ep.1371

It can be tricky to make the transition from indoor to outdoor climbing. On today's Gear Show we give you some tips on how to do it, and go through the essential kit that you need.


Tendon Smart Lite:
Tendon Master Pro:
Black Diamond Poitron:
Wild Country Proton:
Climbing shoes:
Petzl Meteor:
Black Diamond Vapour:
Tendon Gear Bag:
DMM Flight Bag:
Click Up +:
Wild Country Revo:
Psychi Dual Fold Pad:

How To Start Outdoor Climbing | Climbing Daily Ep.1371

Jain Kim shows perfect rock climbing technique

Jain Kim shows perfect rock climbing technique

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Jain Kim shows perfect rock climbing technique in Suwon, South Korea. She demonstrates many rock climbing and bouldering techniques and makes it look effortless.

@7:45 she does a high step to avoid a high commitment move. Every other competitor went with a right foot flag on the lower hold and about %50 of them missed the move.

She tops both routes with ease. Also, she was the only one to top Womens Route B. Unfortunately I could not stay for the later rounds of the event, but she went to go on to win the event.

Jain Kim (Hangul: 김자인, born 11 September 1988) is a professional climber. She is mainly active in lead climbing and bouldering competitions. She won the Lead Climbing World Cup three times (2010, 2013, 2014), the Lead Climbing World Championship once (2014), and the Rock Master once (2010, Lead discipline).

5 Tips for Lead Climbing | Rock Climbing

Rockin’ Rock Climbing Commodities
Momentum Climbing Harness:
La Sportiva Tarantulace Men’s Climbing Shoe:
La Sportiva Tarantulace Women’s Climbing Shoe:
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REVERSO 4 Belay Device:

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So right now, I'm going to do some lead climbing. I'm tied in as a climber, Chaz is clipped in here is the belayer, we've already done our safety checks, I'm ready to start, and while I'm climbing, I'm going to give you five tips for how to lead climb, and how to do so effectively and efficiently.

One good tip is before you start climbing, to take some time and really try to identify the route. What I mean by that is to try to look for critical spots on the route where maybe you'll get a good rest or maybe some difficult cliffs. You'll notice another tip is that when you're clipping, you want to be doing so from a balanced position with a straight arm. Having these straight arms to make those cliffs is a great way to conserve energy.

As I move up a little farther, you'll notice my arm still stays straight clipping. I'm making that clip with a straight arm, and at this point, I'm pretty comfortable, I've good footholds, and I'm on a big jump hold, so I can shake out my arms a little bit to try to get some of that lactic acid out of there. I'll do the same with my other arm. This type of move, shaking out, can really help you to recover while you're climbing.

Another pointer is when to chalk up. So right now if I'm moving into a difficult sequence, I might want to chalk up before I go through it, so timing your chalk ups, when to do it, how often to do it, is something you want to consider.

So, on a similar note, while timing your chalking up, to make sure you're not doing it excessively, but just kind of as needed, a good idea is to try to identify a crux of the route, which is the most difficult section, or where you expect to have the most trouble, and rather than stopping in the middle to chalk up, or maybe try to make a clip from an awkward position, try to push through that crux, identify the sequence, chalk, prepare yourself, get a good rest and shake out, and move straight through that crux

Another tip would be that while I'm climbing, if I'm so scared of falling the whole time, it's going to make me over grip, which means squeezing a lot harder than I need to be, and putting a lot of weight on my arm that doesn't need to be there.

I want to keep it on my feet. So a great tip for lead climbing, is to get comfortable falling. You're going to climb a whole lot better if you're not scared to fall. It'll also make it a lot easier to commit to some of those bigger moves. So those are some tips that are really good for lead climbing to help you move efficiently and effectively.

Rock Climbing: Lead Belay

Once you’ve mastered the art of top roping, it’s time to learn how to lead belay. The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of the system, you need to give the leader slack as he or she climbs. In this REI Expert Advice video, we demonstrate how to get the climber to the first bolt, where to stand while you belay, how to give slack as your partner climbs and clips, and how to catch a fall.

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IFSC Climbing World Cup Xiamen 2019 - Lead Finals

The Lead finals in Xiamen were tight with an unbelievable number of ties recorded at the end of the previous round. As the wall was not as steep as ones from prior competitions, the setters needed to be creative to challenge the climbers leading to a nail-biting finish.

TIE BREAKERS
After a semi-final that resulted in 2 ties for the men’s finalist, the tension was high. Going into the competition Alberto GINÉS LÓPEZ (ESP), JESSE GRUPPER (USA) and Adam ONDRA (CZE) were tied in second place, while Sean BAILEY (USA) and Taisei HOMMA (JPN) were tied for sixth. If another tie occurred between any of these climbers, the results would be determined by time for the podium places.

Tomoa NARASAKI (JPN) who narrowly found a spot on the finals roster started the event with an incredible performance, completing the route in less than three minutes. With such a quick and easy finish, it appeared that the finals were going to go the way of both previous rounds, but a low fall from BAILEY proved otherwise.

The leader after the semi-final, as the only climber to get past the crux at hold 31, Kai HARADA (JPN) looked strong as he made his way up the route. He managed to be the fourth climber to find a way to the top of the wall and looked poised to take his first Lead World Cup medal but couldn’t stick the final hold and landed in fourth place.

The frontrunner of the overall season rankings, ONDRA finished his finals run with style by asking the crowd to cheer for him before securing the final clip which ultimately granted him his third gold medal of the Lead season. HOMMA took the silver while his compatriot NARASAKI claimed the bronze.

ALL IN THE TIMING
The women had even more ties than the men going in the final half of the evening. Japan’s Ai MORI and Lucka RAKOVEC (SLO) were tied for eighth, legends Jain KIM (KOR) and Akiyo NOGUCHI (JPN) were tied for fourth, while Janja GARNBRET (SLO) and Chaehyun SEO (KOR) were both in first.

RAKOVEC made easy work for the route only to miss the final hold, bringing worry that the set might be too easy for the climbers and results would have to be determined by time. The first to successfully top the wall was KIM with 4 seconds remaining on the clock. Her result was immediately beaten by NOGUCHI, tying the two athletes again, but NOGUCHI moved ahead due to her faster climbing time. NOGUCHI got the silver, while Kim took home the bronze.

The top two climbers of the season were the last ones out and despite looking shaky on the final move, SEO secured the clip with a minute and a half left. The only person in her way to yet another gold was GARNBRET. The Slovenian blazed up the wall and reached the final move with over two minutes remaining and looked to have finally reclaimed her spot on the top of the podium, but in her attempt to dyno to the hold she missed to place fourth. With her fourth gold medal of 2019, SEO is the undisputed Lead Season champion.

All the information about the event on: 


About IFSC:

The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.

About the Channel: 

The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!

World up...Keep climbing!

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NEW World record in speed climbing 2011 (6.26 seconds) HD

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A new Speed climbing World Record was set in the Speed Men Finals: the fastest men on earth, and Speed World Champion, is again the Chinese Zhong Qixin, with an astonishing 6.26. Behind him Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) and Danylo Boldyrev, from Ukraine. Full lenght
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IFSC Climbing World Cup Chamonix 2019 - Lead Finals

As the sun set on the legendary mountain town of Chamonix, the competitors took on the lead wall in front of a sea of people at one of the most popular events in the world cup circuit. The final saw no tops and many ties for the women, but the men’s final was considerably more decisive.

Korea Takes Gold

In a surprising turn of events, the crowd favorite, Janja GARNBRET (SLO) was knocked out of the competition after placing ninth in the semi-finals, one move shy of advancing. This is the first time in GARNBRET’s career that she has not made a lead final. This left the first-place position on the podium wide open for the other climbers for the first time since the start of the bouldering season.

The women’s final featured 42 moves to the top, but with the crux of the route situated just above the headwall after a long climb, none of the athletes made it to the top. With another series of ties, the results referred back to the semi-final placing. It was the Villars second-place finisher, Chaehyun SEO (KOR), who took home the gold, her first in her climbing career.

Team USA finally had a representative in a final this season, with Ashima SHIRAISHI earning fifth. Jessica PILZ (AUT) was originally awarded a higher result for her attempt but was later marked down and ended the event with bronze, giving YueTang ZHANG (CHN) the silver.

A Legendary Podium

After a challenging semi-final round for the men, several of the top men’s athletes passed through to the finals. Alexander MEGOS (GER) who had initially held seventh place at the end of the semi-finals was moved down to eighth for using a bolt. With that result, MEGOS is the first out during the finals and made an impressive attempt at the top, holding on to first place for the entire round until Adam ONDRA (CZE) out climbed him at the end to seize his first lead gold of the season.

Austrian Jakob SCHUBERT, the reigning Lead Season Champion of 2018 fell just short of MEGOS’s highpoint and claimed the bronze medal in Chamonix. Great Britain had a men’s finalist for the first time this season and William BOSI did not fail to put on a good show, finishing his finals run in fourth.

All the information about the event on:


About IFSC:
The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.

About the Channel:
The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!

World up...Keep climbing!

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Category
Sports

Sport Climbing Essentials And Pro Kit | Climbing Daily Ep.922

It's Friday which means it's time for the Friday Gear show. With Summer just around the corner we thought we would take you through some essential Sport Climbing kit, and a few tasty extra items. Make sure you comment below with your opinions on the best kit to get.

Check out the sport climbing gear:


Enter HOLIDAY10 at the EpicTV shop checkout for 10% off EVERYTHING in the shop. April 28th to 20th.

Remember to enter our #EpicTradRack comp: just tag a photo of your trad rack on Instagram for a chance to win the Arc'teryx Bora backpack, Kong quickdraws, or Five Ten and So iLL shoes.

Sport Climbing Essentials And Pro Kit | Climbing Daily Ep.922

GoPro: Rock Climbing China's White Mountain With Abond

Liu Yongbang, aka Abond, attempts to climb a 5.14 D climbing route, Hot Dumpling — one of the most challenging climbing routes found on White Mountain in Yangshuo, China.

Shot 100% on the HERO4® camera from ‪

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Mwahaha Lime Tree

Juseph Novae

Scoreganic Super Storm_Light

Strings Massive Memorial Scene

Caspian Hall of the Summer (Lazerbeak Remix)

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2019 USA Climbing: Combined Invitational | Women's Finals

2019 Combined Invitational | Salt Lake City, UT | January 18-20, 2019

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About USA Climbing:
USA Climbing is recognized by the United States Olympic and Paralympic Committee as the National Governing Body for the sport of competition climbing. The organization manages the disciplines of Bouldering, Speed and Sport climbing as well as the Collegiate and Adaptive series. USA Climbing, a member federation of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), also hosts IFSC World Cup events and sends athletes to participate in the IFSC’s World Cup circuit and the World Climbing and Paraclimbing Championships.

Best Knots for Climbing—The 5 Knots Every Climber Should Know || REI

In this video, Miranda shows you how to tie five of the most commonly used climbing knots. She covers the Clove Hitch, the Double Fisherman’s Bend, the Figure 8 on a Bight, the Barrel Knot and the Prusik Hitch. Check out the video, then grab some rope and start tying knots!

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At Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), we love to get outside and play, and we know first-hand the importance of quality outdoor gear. We stand behind all our products with a 100% satisfaction guarantee, and we design our own line of award-winning REI brand gear and clothing. Whether you're new to outdoor adventure or a seasoned pro, we gladly share our enthusiasm for our products—and the trails, slopes and waterways where we play.

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Jain Kim - Rock Climbing Technique Compared

Jain Kim - Rock Climbing Technique Compared
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Jain Kim Equipment►►►
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Shoes (Men):
Chalk:

Jain Kim - Rock Climbing Technique Compared:
I took footage of members of my climbing gym as well as Jain Kim. It's easy to see how masterful her technique truly is when compared. I hope you guys enjoy.

IFSC Climbing World Cup Inzai 2019 - Lead Finals

The final IFSC World Cup competition of the year named two new gold medalists for the 2019 season, Jain KIM (KOR) and Hiroto SHIMIZU (JPN). Janja GARNBRET (SLO) and Tomoa NARASAKI (JPN) take the Combined Podium.

A RECORD NUMBER OF WINS
Four Japanese athletes advanced to the women’s finals to the excitement of the home crowd, who hoped to see one of their own on the final podium of the year.

Natsuki TANII (JPN) was the first to attempt the route and finished with a score of 34+, her compatriot Miho NONAKA followed immediately after to receive the same result. Both ended the season fifth and sixth respectively. Veteran climber, Akiyo NOGUCHI (JPN) was the first to successfully pass the highpoint set by her teammates and ultimately placed fourth in the competition.

After NOGUCHI, only three climbers remained to take their turn on the wall. The 2019 Lead Season Champion Chaehyun SEO (KOR) easily secured her spot on the podium by reaching hold 37, but the color of her medal had yet to be determined. Her run was immediately followed by the legendary Jain KIM (KOR), who took her time up the route, completing it with less than a minute left on the clock.

With a top from KIM, Janja GARNBRET needed a top of her own to stand on the highest step on the podium. She sped up the route in her usual style and approached the penultimate hold, but unfortunately appeared to pump out and slipped, settling for second place. With this win, KIM is the first climber to achieve 30 IFSC World Cup gold medals.

At the conclusion of the IFSC World Cup in Inzai, GARNBRET and TANII clinch the two available spots on the season podium.

A FIRST TIME GOLD MEDALIST
There was another tie this week in the men’s competition between American Jesse GRUPPER and Japan’s Meichi NARASAKI that culminated in nine athletes participating in the final round. Both had their turns on the wall early on and GRUPPER set an early highpoint that was later matched by Yuki HADA (JPN). It wasn’t passed until Stefano GHISOLFI (ITA) had his chance to take on the lead wall and finished with a 32+, which eventually earned him a bronze medal.

The fifth climber out for the event was IFSC Lead World Cup Briançon 2019 silver medalist, Hiroto SHIMIZU (JPN). He calmly climbed up the wall at a steady pace and was the closest to reaching the top before falling at 38+, with four climbers remaining in the line-up.

Breakout climber, Alberto GINÉS LÓPEZ (ESP) has had incredible results this season in both the youth and senior circuits. As the only climber to top a route during the semi-final round, he was the clear favorite to win the gold in Japan. Despite nearly slipping several times, he managed to pass the previously set highpoints and approached SHIMIZU’s last hold, but fell before reaching it to land in second, granting SHIMIZU his first IFSC World Cup win in his home country.

With the Lead Season title already claimed by Adam ONDRA (CZE) in Xiamen, the last two spots on the podium still needed to be determined. After their performance in Inzai, GINÉS LÓPEZ took second and Canadian Sean MCCOLL took third.

GARNBRET AND NARASAKI WIN AGAIN IN COMBINED
Following seven months of Boulder, Speed and Lead competitions, GARNBRET and Tomoa NARASAKI (JPN) are once again ahead of the pack in Combined after their Combined World Championship wins in Hachioji this past August. To qualify for a combined ranking place, athletes had to participate in at least two competitions per discipline throughout the 2019 season. With these wins, both athletes are proving to be the ones to beat next year in Tokyo 2020.

All the information about the event on: 


About IFSC:

The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.

About the Channel: 

The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!

World up...Keep climbing!

Website:
Facebook:
Twitter:
YouTube:
LinkedIn:

David Lama & Conrad Anker Climb New Route in Zion National Park

David Lama teams up with Conrad Anker to finish an amazing climbing route in Zion National Park: Latent Core.

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Anker first tried the route nearly 25 years ago, but never completed the full thing. With the help of Lama, the duo set out to leave their mark and finish the route at one of the most incredible climbing spots in the park.

#redbull #DavidLama #climbing

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Boston Peak Vol 2: A Sport Climbing Collection

Psyched for Sport?

The Featured filmmaker this week and next is Ben Scott.

Follow Ben's vimeo channel for more great films:

Or follow him on instagram @poudre_guide

Another media dump from the 2017-2018 season at the infamous Boston Peak / West of Rustic / Poudre Canyon / Colorado. Featured routes and climbers include:
Wicked Pissah 13b - Dan Yager FA
Tea Party 13a - Brett Hoffman
Cradle of Liberty 13c - Spencer Anderson 2nd Ascent
Foreplay/Longtime 13a - Jason Tarry
Scorsese 14c - Ethan Pringle FA

Matty Hong climbing in Spain

When Matty Hong sets out to accomplish something, like sending two 5.15a routes in Spain, there's nothing that can stop him from attaining his goal. During his spring trip to Spain, Matty applied himself to no end to make quick work of La Rambla in Siurana and Joe Mama in Oliana.

Climber: Matty Hong
Video: Jon Cardwell
Edit: Jon Cardwell and Matty Hong
Music: “Born Twice” by Mark Tracy and “Scrambled” by Lana Inspired

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