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Mixed climbing

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Everyday - Sarah Hueniken Climbs Mushashi (M12)

At a rating of M12, Musashi is one of the hardest mixed routes in Canada. Ten years ago, Outdoor Research Ice Climbing Ambassador and ACMG Alpine Guide Sarah Hueniken saw a video of the route being climbed by renowned climbers Will Gadd and Ben Firth. In March of 2013, she ventured into Alberta's Cineplex Cave and climbed it herself, becoming the first North American woman to successfully climb M12.

Watch Sarah's successful ascent of Musashi in Everyday, the complete film from AliasCinema.

Read an account of the climb in her own words, here:

And check out some of her favorite ice and mixed climbing apparel and gear here:

Women's Havoc Jacket --

Men's Havoc Jacket --

Mixalot Gloves --

Women's Centrifuge Jacket --

Men's Centrifuge Jacket -
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Winter Layering - Mixed Climbing in Switzerland | Alpine Climbing | Jeff Mercier | Rab Equipment

Kandersteg in Switzerland has long been a mecca for alpine climbers. Back inn 2015, Rab athlete Jeff Mercier made an incredible link up of three classic mixed routes - in a single day.

Jeff relies on Rab clothing and equipment on all his projects, and in the high mountains down insulation is still the ultimate insulator.

Rab Athlete Profile:
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Training for mixed climbing: Fundamentals

Vlog #8: Winter is coming. Are you ready? In this episode I go through the fundamentals of what I do to prepare for the mixed climbing season. Dry tooling, cardio training, and some other important points that lead the dry tooling beasts to still fail to achieve their potential on the actual winter routes.

You'll find over a decade worth of climbing performance advice and information on my blogs and in my books at
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Lead Finals l Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 l Cheongsong

UIAA and MountainTV present live coverage from day two of the Ice Climbing World Cup in Cheongsong, South Korea.

Coverage includes both the men's and women's lead finals.

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The Pumpkin (V, 4), Creag Meagaidh: Scottish winter climbing

What motivates a Scottish winter mountaineer and what are the challenges and rewards? Pumpkin follows Neill Busby and Bob Licznerski on a perfect winter's day on Creag Meagaidh to climb the 300m route The Pumpkin graded V,4.

With stunning weather and aerial footage, what better viewing to get psyched for a winter's day in the mountains?

#climbing #mountains #adventure

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What is Mixed Climbing? Winter Climb on the Cosmique Arete Chamonix

Mixed Climbing uses all the basics from rock climbing, ice climbing and mountaineering. Join Live Big host Patrick Sweeney on the world famous Cosmique Arete in Chamonix France as he learns from one of the world's top mountaineers - Jon Bracey on how to do this tricky winter ascent of the world's most famous mixed climb.

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And leave a comment below about what you liked, didn't like or what adventures you want to see next!

Pinocchio, delicate mixed climbing in Mont Blanc du Tacul

Nicolas Preitner & Jon Murua
Pinocchio, Mont Blanc du Tacul
4,248m ED M6+

Winter ascend of this delicate and sustained mixed climbing route.

Date: 2.2.2020

8h10 Chamonix
9h30 Start climbing
11h15 R4
14h30 summit
15h30 start skiing down
16h40 Montenvers
18h30 Chamonix

Transcript:
They say that Pinocchio is one of the most beautiful mixed climbing routes in the Alps, when it's in good conditions.
Having good conditions is very rare though. It is generally dry making it hard and delicate.

That wouldn't stop us.
We heard that it was climbed a month ago and we were very motivated to give it a go.

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This route, like many others in Mont Blanc de Tacul has the advantage of being easy to access and if things go wrong, it is also easy to bail by rappelling the same route.

That reduces the engagement and also the weight to carry as the backpack can be left at the bottom of the route with the skis.

Pinocchio is hard. It is hard and sustained. It is classified as a extremely hard route and in fact it's one of the hardest routes I've climbed.

It is delicate, steep and not easy to protect either. It is sustained on the M6 with many overhanging moves making it also a bit physical. What a combo!

The second pitch set the scene already with a very tricky overhanging move with nothing to hold on to. Well done Nicolas for leading that!
I can tell that this pitch would had been much easier with some ice.

The third pitch goes through a very serious roof which we climb using the slab on the left.
Yes, we climb slab with crampons. That was delicate and physical!

The following pitches felt a bit easier; probably because we were already very focused and full of adrenaline.
However, these pitches were the hardest to protect. There was a tiny little layer of ice, making it pleasant to climb, but it wasn't thick enough to place ice screws. That same ice was hiding the crack where we would otherwise place some micro cams.

We climbed smoothly up until the last pitch. It happens that the last pitch is the crux. Long and sustained M6+.
There are 2 options here. The right hand side through the steep snow or the dry and delicate overhanging goulotte on the left.

I tried going through the snow initially.
I tried.
I tried but I didn't feel like engaging with that amount of inconsistent snow.
This snow requires a significant effort to clean and it feels very insecure.

Plan B.

The overhanging and delicate goulotte on the left.

There was not much ice, neither many options to place protection.
I climbed slowly, very focused, taking rests where I could.

One roof after another.
Making stein pulls at 4K metres and holding on milimetric edges.
Scraping the ice and hammering the ice axes to break as little ice as possible.
I must admit this is not easy in overhanging terrain and specially in these thin cracks where this is not much space to swing.

We climbed the whole route in about 5 hours.
That is an average of 30 minutes per pitch.
That is extremely fast!

It's also quite unusual for me to finish that early and have the chance to descend la valle blanche with sunlight.

The rappels were straight forward on the route itself and we managed to get to the bottom safely.
It was fascinating to see how steep and delicate this route is while abseiling.


Gear used:
Helmet: Petzl Sirocco
Ropes: Mammut Genesis Dry 2x60m
Ice axes: Petzl Ergo
Crampons: Petzl Dart
Boots: La Sportiva G5
Harness: Mammut Zephyr Alpine
Gloves: Simond Cascade, Black Diamond Soloist
Belay plate: Petzl Reverso
Backpack: Mammut trion light 38l
Camera: GoPro Session 5
Music Credit:

COME AND GET IT - Matt Cornell & Conrad Anker - Hyalite Canyon

Come and Get it is a story about the new generation dirtbag climber Matt Cornell soloing one of the hardest mixed climbing routes in Hyalite Canyon. His story of accomplishment is expounded upon by Conrad Anker, as he provides context into the difficulty and notoriety of the route. Together, the two have worked through the route to make it a success. Hold Fast.

FEATURING: Matt Cornell & Conrad Anker

DIRECTED BY: Nathan Norby
AERIAL CINEMATOGRAPHY: Nate Kenney
MUSIC: Left on Tenth and Artlist.io
RIGGING AND SUPPORT: Matt Hopkins
More - nathannorby.com

Scott Adamson Sends Santeria, Hardest Mixed Climb in Utah -- Short Version

On January 3, 2013, Scott Adamson (31) from Provo, UT sent the first ascent of Santeria in Provo Canyon, making it the hardest mixed climb in Utah.

Cinematography and post-production by Parker Alec Cross.

Scottish winter: first ascent of Making the Cut (VII, 8) Beinn Eighe

A film from the BMC International Winter Meet 2014. With 44 guests from 26 countries, for many it was a unique experience. In this film: Making the Cut VII,8 Beinn Eighe, first ascent.

A film by James Dunn -

We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us.
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Modica-Noury - ice & mixed climbing on Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix

Climbing the popular ice goulotte Modica-Noury on the north face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix. Skiing out via the Vallee Blanche.
Climbed by Alastair McDowell & Jon Murua on March 2nd 2019.

Winter skills 4.4: climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground

Expert tips for winter climbing. Climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground.

This is one of a series of instructional films produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors), Lowe Alpine and DMM.

WATCH: 32 winter skills films in our playlist:





#iceclimbing #mountaineering

We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us.

Black Diamond Presents: Jackson Marvell—Gimme Back My Bullets

Despite his young age of 23, Jackson Marvell is old-school. For him, climbing is about adventure. He’s not out clipping bolts or waiting for the temps to drop so he can send that next V-grade. You’re more likely to find Jackson out solo-aiding a crumbling mud tower. But when it comes to sending bold routes, he’s prolific. The Utah native summited 100 desert towers before he could legally drink and has established first ascents from the Colorado Plateau all the way to Kyrgyzstan. Despite his impressive ticklist, however, Marvell is a throwback to the days of old, when you climbed hard, came home, and went back to work without spraying.

“If you weren’t filming him, the majority of people wouldn’t know all the stuff that he did this season,” says alpinist and photographer Drew Smith.

Luckily, local filmmaker and photographer Ben Neilson was filming last season, and captured Jackson in his element, climbing some of Utah’s hardest ice and mixed routes. Check out the film Gimme Back My Bullets.
#liveclimbrepeat

Reel Rock: Will Gadd and Tim Emmett Ice Climbing Helmcken Falls

Canadian Will Gadd and Brit Tim Emmett discover a new universe of ice climbing at Helmcken Falls, BC, where a 500 foot waterfall sprays the underside of a gargantuan cave with fantastical ice formations.

The Top Three Ice And Mixed Climbing Videos Of 2015 | Climbing Daily, Ep. 633

We look back on the top three ice and mixed climbing videos of 2015. Included are some top climbs from Scotland to Iceland and the USA. From the likes of Greg Boswell to Will Gadd to climbing some of the most spectacular ice climbing caves in Iceland. Hopefully you'll agree that this is some of the best ice and mixed climbing 2015 had to offer.


The Top Three Ice And Mixed Climbing Videos Of 2015 | Climbing Daily, Ep. 633
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Speed Finals | Ice Climbing World Championship

Live from Champagny-en-Vanoise for the 2017 UIAA Ice Climbing World Championship

Mixed Climbing Man Machine Greg Boswell | Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2



Climbing doesn't really pay, so he drives a tractor to get paid so that he can buy the gas to drive himself to the climbing spots. That's dedication.
Best of Britain episode two follows top winter climber Greg Boswell. Greg spends his summers working on a Scottish farm and his winters climbing hard routes in the mountains. Somewhere in between he trains by dry tooling both in a farm out building and at the UK's premiere dry tooling crag, The Tube at Newtyle Quarry.


British Climber Profile: Greg Boswell | Best of British - Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2

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The First Documented Free-Solo On This Yosemite Ice Route | Climbing Daily, Ep. 644



For all your latest climbing gear head to:

Today on Climbing Daily we catch up with Ukrainian-born, San Fran based climber Vitaliy Musiyenko, and talk about his New Year’s Day ice send of Widow’s Tears in Yosemite Valley. According to Vitaliy it’s the first documented free-solo ascent of the rarely in condition route, which has seen as few as 20 repeats since it was established. First climbed over three days in 1975 by Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral, the over 1000ft falls goes at WI5, with its length and lack of protection make it a challenging route.



Check out Vitaliy's blog for more of his adventures

The First Documented Free-Solo On This Yosemite Ice Route | Climbing Daily, Ep. 644

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Solo’s And Mixed Climbing: Brette Harrington’s Reel Rock Epic | Climbing Daily Ep.798



Every year the Reel Rock Film tour raises the bar for climbing films, bringing the best action from the biggest stars in Climbing. This year’s films are no exception.

We caught up with American climber Brette Harrington to chat about her amazing film segment.

Check out the Reel Rock film tour here:

Apologies about the distortion on some of the audio due to a bad Skype connection.

All video and photos credited to Reel Rock.

Solo’s And Mixed Climbing: Brette Harrington’s Reel Rock Epic | Climbing Daily Ep.798

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The Remarkables - Where we Belong - Mixed Climbing Friday's Fool

This movie retraces the first ascent of Friday's Fool, a steep mixed (rock + ice) climb on the front face of The Remarkables high above Queenstown in New Zealand.
Months of editing, filming, interviewing local climbers and taking pictures should hopefully give a sense to what climbing on The Remarkables is about!
This movie is dedicated to Howie Mcghie, whose love for the mountains, the outdoors shined through his life, so here is to Howie , a humble, generous and enthusiastic mountaineer. This movie would not have been possible without him.

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