Winter skills 4.4: climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground
Expert tips for winter climbing. Climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground.
This is one of a series of instructional films produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors), Lowe Alpine and DMM.
We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us.
Scott Adamson Sends "Santeria," Hardest Mixed Climb in Utah -- Short Version
On January 3, 2013, Scott Adamson (31) from Provo, UT sent the first ascent of Santeria in Provo Canyon, making it the hardest mixed climb in Utah.
Cinematography and post-production by Parker Alec Cross.
Training for mixed climbing: Fundamentals
Vlog #8: Winter is coming. Are you ready? In this episode I go through the fundamentals of what I do to prepare for the mixed climbing season. Dry tooling, cardio training, and some other important points that lead the dry tooling beasts to still fail to achieve their potential on the actual winter routes.
You'll find over a decade worth of climbing performance advice and information on my blogs and in my books at
Everyday - Sarah Hueniken Climbs Mushashi (M12)
At a rating of M12, Musashi is one of the hardest mixed routes in Canada. Ten years ago, Outdoor Research Ice Climbing Ambassador and ACMG Alpine Guide Sarah Hueniken saw a video of the route being climbed by renowned climbers Will Gadd and Ben Firth. In March of 2013, she ventured into Alberta's Cineplex Cave and climbed it herself, becoming the first North American woman to successfully climb M12.
Watch Sarah's successful ascent of Musashi in Everyday, the complete film from AliasCinema.
Read an account of the climb in her own words, here:
And check out some of her favorite ice and mixed climbing apparel and gear here:
Women's Havoc Jacket --
Men's Havoc Jacket --
Mixalot Gloves --
Women's Centrifuge Jacket --
Men's Centrifuge Jacket -
Scottish Ice trip - Mixed climbing in Ben Nevis - Scotland
If there is one place on earth where climbers celebrate the arrival of the next snowstorm, it has to be Scotland. Each winter, pounded by the North Atlantic winds, the Scottish Highlands are covered by a layer of snow and frost at the mercy of weather conditions. Here, winter climbing has existed for more than a century, and the smell of adventure is as authentic as the whisky borne of the local peat. Climbing is done from the ground up, without bolts, and generally onsight. An introduction to the very modern ethics of Scottish mixed climbing. It's in those condition that Ueli Steck flashed the secret (X, 10), the hardest climb in Ben Nevis.
Storm Giant: The World's Hardest Drytooling Route
The story of Gord McArthur's ascent of Storm Giant (D16), the hardest drytooling* route in the world.
*Please note that this line has been changed from 'mixed' to 'drytooling' as this route was not established as a mixed route. The route is designated with a 'D' rating to distinguish it as such. We have changed the copy to reflect this here, but cannot change the film's title. This was an oversight on our part and apologize for the confusion.
Winter Layering - Mixed Climbing in Switzerland
Kandersteg in Switzerland has long been a mecca for alpine climbers. In 2015 Rab athlete Jeff Mercier made an incredible link up of three classic mixed routes - in a single day.
Jeff relies on Rab clothing and equipment on all his projects, and in the high mountains down insulation is still the ultimate insulator.
The 2nd Ice Season - Chapter 2 - Mixed climbing (M6)
Mixed Climbing Man Machine Greg Boswell | Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2
Climbing doesn't really pay, so he drives a tractor to get paid so that he can buy the gas to drive himself to the climbing spots. That's dedication.
Best of Britain episode two follows top winter climber Greg Boswell. Greg spends his summers working on a Scottish farm and his winters climbing hard routes in the mountains. Somewhere in between he trains by dry tooling both in a farm out building and at the UK's premiere dry tooling crag, The Tube at Newtyle Quarry.
British Climber Profile: Greg Boswell | Best of British - Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2
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Drytooling and mixed climbing at Moline near Cogne | Ice Climbing Vlog Ep. 23
Drytooling and mixed ice climbing at Moline next to Cogne in Italy offers a fun day of single pitchc climbing! If you want to know more about Moline next to Cogne in Italy, then watch this drytooling and mixed ice climbing video!
If you watch the climbing video to the end I will share a few tips for some longer ice climbing multipitch routes around Cogne that you should add to your ice climbing wish list.
But before watching the climbing video about the Moline drytooling and mixed ice climbing crag, then remember to subscribe to the channel if you want more videos on rock climbing, alpine climbing and ice climbing around Europe. And gear advice!
Moline is a small village between Cogne and Lillaz in the Gran Paradiso National Park in Northern Italy in the Aosta Valley.
The ice climbing, mixed ice climbing and drytooling crag resides within a gorge, where you will climb the walls. This drytooling and mixed ice climbing crag that will definitely satisfy your need for single pitch ice climbing, mixed ice climbing and dry tooling – Moline will not disappoint! Here there are ice climbing routes around grade WI3 to WI4 and mixed ice climbing and dry tooling from M4 to M7! When we visited Moline it was still early ice climbing season and the majority of the ice climbing routes hadn’t really formed yet. The season for ice climbing in Cogne in the Aosta Valley usually runs from December to March, but that can vary a lot from season to season. This year it had been very dry and warm in most of Europe, so many of the major ice climbing destinations was not in good conditions. So, instead of ice climbing, we gave some of the drytooling and mixed ice climbing routes a try instead.
It is really easy to set up top ropes for the different routes here as there are loads of trees. Or, if you want to lead climb, then you can easily do that. Most of the drytooling and mixed ice climbing routes are bolted, so you just have to bring a set of ice screws.
Moline is situated just about a kilometer from Cogne towards Lillaz and you can walk from town. Or you can park your car at the parking lot on the right side of the road.
In terms of gear bring a rack of quickdraws and some ice screws for the ice climbing and mixed ice climbing routes.
RELATED ICE CLIMBING VIDEOS:
If you enjoyed watching this video remember to watch some of the other videos I’ve done about ice climbing in Italy
► How to climb Cascata di Patri near Cogne:
Or check out some of the ice climbing videos from Colfosco in Alta Badia in the Italian Dolomites:
► How to climb Lujanta near Colfosco:
Either way, leave a comment below if you have any questions regarding La Spada di Damocle near Colfosco (Calfosch) in the Italian Dolomites (Dolomiti), or if you are seeking information about other ice climbing routes in the Alps.
Song: By The Croft by Joakim Karud
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Sam Eastman Mixed Climbing - "Mack 10"
Mixed Climbing Avalanche Accident.m4v
WARNING: PROFANITY AND GRAPHIC IMAGES
This accident occurred on Nov 6th 2011 in South East Wyoming on a first ascent of a previously unclimbed route (it's been climbed in the summer - never as an ice climb as far as we know).
I am posting the video as a reminder of how challenging self-rescue is when things go wrong on an alpine climb. Our climb was only two miles from the road, but a broken ankle made it feel much farther. I hope this video helps other climbers make wise choices about how they manage risk.
Oh...and, yes, that is a reference to Touching the Void.
Mixed climbing Free Solo Ryan Nelson
A nice mixed and ice route in Durango, CO done rope free
Mixed Climbing-Bullet W3+/M5+ - RMNP, Colorado
Mixed Climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Under Pressure M8, Trad mixed climbing
Merry making an onsight ascent of Under Pressure M8, protected mixed climbing at the Telecom Tower Remarkables NZ. Merry made the 4th ascent of the crux pitch and the 2nd onsight of the route.
Chere Couloir - Alpine Ice Climbing
Guiding and teaching on the Chere Couloir - this is one of the best known ice routes in the Mont Blanc Range; a modern classic that is frequently in condition. Short, steep and technically interesting, with a quick abseil descent.
Mixed Climbing Wyoming (take two)
Back at it one year later.
The Remarkables - Where we Belong - Mixed Climbing Friday's Fool
This movie retraces the first ascent of Friday's Fool, a steep mixed (rock + ice) climb on the front face of The Remarkables high above Queenstown in New Zealand.
Months of editing, filming, interviewing local climbers and taking pictures should hopefully give a sense to what climbing on The Remarkables is about!
This movie is dedicated to Howie Mcghie, whose love for the mountains, the outdoors shined through his life, so here is to Howie , a humble, generous and enthusiastic mountaineer. This movie would not have been possible without him.
Ice & mixed climbing on Mont Blanc du Tacul, Modica Noury
Climbing the popular ice goulotte Modica-Noury on the north face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix. Skiing out via the Vallee Blanche.
Climbed by Alastair McDowell & Jon Murua on March 2nd 2019.
What is Mixed Climbing? Winter Climb on the Cosmique Arete Chamonix
Mixed Climbing uses all the basics from rock climbing, ice climbing and mountaineering. Join Live Big host Patrick Sweeney on the world famous Cosmique Arete in Chamonix France as he learns from one of the world's top mountaineers - Jon Bracey on how to do this tricky winter ascent of the world's most famous mixed climb.
For more Living Big follow Patrick on:
And leave a comment below about what you liked, didn't like or what adventures you want to see next!