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Mixed climbing

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Everyday - Sarah Hueniken Climbs Mushashi (M12)

At a rating of M12, Musashi is one of the hardest mixed routes in Canada. Ten years ago, Outdoor Research Ice Climbing Ambassador and ACMG Alpine Guide Sarah Hueniken saw a video of the route being climbed by renowned climbers Will Gadd and Ben Firth. In March of 2013, she ventured into Alberta's Cineplex Cave and climbed it herself, becoming the first North American woman to successfully climb M12.

Watch Sarah's successful ascent of Musashi in Everyday, the complete film from AliasCinema.

Read an account of the climb in her own words, here:

And check out some of her favorite ice and mixed climbing apparel and gear here:

Women's Havoc Jacket --

Men's Havoc Jacket --

Mixalot Gloves --

Women's Centrifuge Jacket --

Men's Centrifuge Jacket -

Winter skills 4.4: climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground

Expert tips for winter climbing. Climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground.

This is one of a series of instructional films produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors), Lowe Alpine and DMM.

WATCH: 32 winter skills films in our playlist:





#iceclimbing #mountaineering

We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us.
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Training for mixed climbing: Fundamentals

Vlog #8: Winter is coming. Are you ready? In this episode I go through the fundamentals of what I do to prepare for the mixed climbing season. Dry tooling, cardio training, and some other important points that lead the dry tooling beasts to still fail to achieve their potential on the actual winter routes.

You'll find over a decade worth of climbing performance advice and information on my blogs and in my books at

Winter Layering - Mixed Climbing in Switzerland | Alpine Climbing | Jeff Mercier | Rab Equipment

Kandersteg in Switzerland has long been a mecca for alpine climbers. Back inn 2015, Rab athlete Jeff Mercier made an incredible link up of three classic mixed routes - in a single day.

Jeff relies on Rab clothing and equipment on all his projects, and in the high mountains down insulation is still the ultimate insulator.

Rab Athlete Profile:
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Climbing Punta Herron Patagonia

Climbing Punta Herron in Patagonia. Alastair Mcdowell, Caleb Jennings and Daniel Joll make the first ascent by an NZ Team of Punta Herron in Patagonia.

Scott Adamson Sends "Santeria," Hardest Mixed Climb in Utah -- Short Version

On January 3, 2013, Scott Adamson (31) from Provo, UT sent the first ascent of Santeria in Provo Canyon, making it the hardest mixed climb in Utah.

Cinematography and post-production by Parker Alec Cross.
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The Remarkables - Where we Belong - Mixed Climbing Friday's Fool

This movie retraces the first ascent of Friday's Fool, a steep mixed (rock + ice) climb on the front face of The Remarkables high above Queenstown in New Zealand.
Months of editing, filming, interviewing local climbers and taking pictures should hopefully give a sense to what climbing on The Remarkables is about!
This movie is dedicated to Howie Mcghie, whose love for the mountains, the outdoors shined through his life, so here is to Howie , a humble, generous and enthusiastic mountaineer. This movie would not have been possible without him.

High Altitude Climbing on Lunag Ri: David Lama | GoPro Highlights

► CLICK to watch the FULL VIDEO from their expedition:
David Lama and Conrad Anker became the first expedition ever to reach the headwall of Lunag Ri, a 6907 meter high mountain located at the border of Nepal and Tibet. The combination of untouched summit and demanding climbing was incredibly difficult from all sides, and the duo made it further than any expedition in years past. Rough weather conditions and limited time kept them from reaching the true summit, but the ascent itself made for one helluva breathtaking experience. Check out the POV highlights from their adventure, and click the link above to watch the full video from their expedition on RedBull.com!

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David Lama scales one of the toughest Alpine climbing routes

Click CC for captions!
Check out all of our adventures here:
David Lama is best known for being able to scale the world's toughest alpine climbing routes, while Dani Arnold is famous for his speed. The two young alpinists recently teamed up for an expedition to Alaska and were able to realize a spectacular first ascent right away.

With their new route Bird of Prey Lama and Arnold managed to pull off the first line through the central headwall of the 1500-metre (4500 ft.) east face of Moose's Tooth.

The duo finished the demanding climb in remarkable speed, making it back to base camp within 48 hours.
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Scottish Ice trip - Mixed climbing in Ben Nevis - Scotland

If there is one place on earth where climbers celebrate the arrival of the next snowstorm, it has to be Scotland. Each winter, pounded by the North Atlantic winds, the Scottish Highlands are covered by a layer of snow and frost at the mercy of weather conditions. Here, winter climbing has existed for more than a century, and the smell of adventure is as authentic as the whisky borne of the local peat. Climbing is done from the ground up, without bolts, and generally onsight. An introduction to the very modern ethics of Scottish mixed climbing. It's in those condition that Ueli Steck flashed the secret (X, 10), the hardest climb in Ben Nevis.
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Chere Couloir - Alpine Ice Climbing

Guiding and teaching on the Chere Couloir - this is one of the best known ice routes in the Mont Blanc Range; a modern classic that is frequently in condition. Short, steep and technically interesting, with a quick abseil descent.

Storm Giant: The World's Hardest Drytooling Route

The story of Gord McArthur's ascent of Storm Giant (D16), the hardest drytooling* route in the world.

*Please note that this line has been changed from 'mixed' to 'drytooling' as this route was not established as a mixed route. The route is designated with a 'D' rating to distinguish it as such. We have changed the copy to reflect this here, but cannot change the film's title. This was an oversight on our part and apologize for the confusion.
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Will Gadd Is One of the World's Best Ice Climbers...Guess How Old He Is | Sub-Zero, Ep. 4



Sub-Zero explores the souls of four top Canadian ice climbers. In the series finale we sit down with Will Gadd, a man widely thought of as being among the most versatile outdoor athletes in the world. A veteran of the sport, Will's boundless energy has him constantly seeking new adventures. Not bad for a man in his mid-forties. All-round action hero Will Gadd is a living legend in the truest sense.

Director: Lukasz Warzecha/PolishedProject
Producer: Lukasz Warzecha/PolishedProject
Athletes: Will Gadd, John Freeman
Sports: Adventure, Climbing

Will Gadd Is One of the World's Best Ice Climbers...Guess How Old He Is | Sub-Zero, Ep. 4
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The Top Three Ice And Mixed Climbing Videos Of 2015 | Climbing Daily, Ep. 633

We look back on the top three ice and mixed climbing videos of 2015. Included are some top climbs from Scotland to Iceland and the USA. From the likes of Greg Boswell to Will Gadd to climbing some of the most spectacular ice climbing caves in Iceland. Hopefully you'll agree that this is some of the best ice and mixed climbing 2015 had to offer.


The Top Three Ice And Mixed Climbing Videos Of 2015 | Climbing Daily, Ep. 633

A Dyno With Ice Axes Is INSANE | Climbing Daily Ep.1349

Get some Ice Climbing gear:

Today it's time for our highlight video of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Saas-Fee. The athletes had been competing all weekend and it's now the moment to put everything on the line...

Visit the UIAA:

A Dyno With Ice Axes Is INSANE | Climbing Daily Ep.1349
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Ice & mixed climbing on Mont Blanc du Tacul, Modica Noury

Climbing the popular ice goulotte Modica-Noury on the north face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix. Skiing out via the Vallee Blanche.
Climbed by Alastair McDowell & Jon Murua on March 2nd 2019.

5 tips and tricks on how to start ice climbing (2019) | Ice Climbing Vlog Ep. 20

If you would like to know how to start ice climbing? Then this is the right video for you! Ice climbing is very different from other types of climbing, so in this video I will give you 5 tips and tricks you should to know if you want to start ice climbing! And if you watch the video to the end I will also share a few very good ice climbing destinations for beginners.

In this ice climbing video I will give you tips and tricks on ice climbing technique. Whether you are a ice climbing beginner or have been ice climbing for some years, these tips and tricks on ice climbing technique will help you improve your climbing abilities.

I will also talk about what essential ice climbing gear you need. The most essential ice climbing gear are technical ice axes, crampons, ice screws and a helmet!

Besides this I will talk about the ice climbing grading system called the Water/Ice or WI system. It ranges from WI1 to WI7. WI7 is very rare, and most climbs are between WI3 and WI6. Tjønnstadbergfossen in Rjukan In Norway is a typical WI3 with a few sustained moves and long bulges of ice, while Cascata di Patri near Cogne in Italy is a classical WI4 with long sections of 90 degrees ice. And finally Sabotørfossen in Rjukan is WI5 with its final full pitch of about 85 degrees steepness.

According to alpinist.com the water/ice grading system can be described as:

WI1: Low angle ice; no tools required.
WI2: Consistent 60º ice with possible bulges; good protection.
WI3: Sustained 70º with possible long bulges of 80º-90º; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws.
WI4: Continuous 80º ice fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional rests.
WI5: Long and strenuous, with a ropelength of 85º-90º ice offering few good rests; or a shorter pitch of thin or bad ice with protection that’s difficult to place.
WI6: A full ropelength of near-90º ice with no rests, or a shorter pitch even more tenuous than WI 5.Highly technical.
WI7: As above, but on thin poorly bonded ice or long, overhanging poorly adhered columns. Protection is impossible or very difficult to place and of dubious quality.
WI8: Under discussion.

Grades differ from region to region. A WI4 in Cogne might not be the same as WI4 in Valdez. Like all other climbing grading systems providing a specific climbing route with a grade will always be a subjective decision. And especially with ice climbing routes as they might change from season to season. And they will also differ from early season to end of season.

In this ice climbing video I will also give you tips and tricks on how to build ice climbing experience. If you have some friends who have experience and you are on a budget, you could see if they are willing taking you ice climbing. If not, you should consider hiring a mountain guide who can introduce you. In most of the major ice climbing areas you can hire mountain guides – they are not cheap, but it is an excellent way of getting started with ice climbing. Or, you could also consider joining one of the many different ice climbing festivals. They usually run clinics and workshops to build basic ice climbing skills, and that it is not that expensive.

If you are based in Europe you should check out the ice climbing festivals in:

► Rjukan Ice Festival
► Abisko Ice Climbing Festival
► Argentiere Ice Climbing Ecrin
► Cogne Ice Opening

And if you are in the US check out:

► Ouray Ice Festival
► Valdez Ice Climbing Festival
► Bozeman Ice Festival
► Cody Ice Festival

And there are plenty more!

You could also go online! If you are looking for ice climbing partners these are good places to look:



Unlike rock climbing routes, ice climbing routes change from season to season. This also means that ice climbing routes can vary in conditions throughout the season. So you have to learn how to look for whether a route is in the right conditions or not

Finally, I will give tips and tricks on a few destinations you should visit if you are a beginner. Cogne in the Gran Paradiso National Park in Northern Italy is an ice climbing mekka! But if you are looking for introductory ice crags I would highly recommend Krokan and Ozzimosis in Rjukan in Norway or Moline in Cogne in Italy. And both Rjukan and Cogne have ice climbing festivals with loads of clinics and workshops.

MUSIC:

Time Stands Still by A Sappheiros

Where Silence Is Nonexistent by A Himitsu
Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0

Music promoted by Audio Library

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Mixed Climbing Man Machine Greg Boswell | Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2



Climbing doesn't really pay, so he drives a tractor to get paid so that he can buy the gas to drive himself to the climbing spots. That's dedication.
Best of Britain episode two follows top winter climber Greg Boswell. Greg spends his summers working on a Scottish farm and his winters climbing hard routes in the mountains. Somewhere in between he trains by dry tooling both in a farm out building and at the UK's premiere dry tooling crag, The Tube at Newtyle Quarry.


British Climber Profile: Greg Boswell | Best of British - Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2

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Mixed Climbing-Bullet W3+/M5+ - RMNP, Colorado

Mixed Climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.

Beyond Good and Evil

In the house of pain, we were chained together searching for our truth, beyond good and evil. This quote from Nietzsche inspired Andy Parkin and Mark Twight, the openers of this mixed climbing route, that became a reference. Listed extremely difficult, North oriented, this route was appealing for François Damilano and François Marsigny, the repeaters of the route.
Last winter, it was time for the up-and-coming generation, represented by Marion Poitevin and Sébastien Ratel to meet the challenge. Three duos, three experiences, three encounters… echoing the Trilogy alpine series.

Discover here the whole story:

Enter our draw to win a mountaineering week-end in Chamonix:


Nous sommes enchaînés à la douleur, à chercher nos vérités, au-delà du bien et du mal. C'est cette citation de Nietzsche qui a inspiré Mark Twight et Andy Parkin, les deux ouvreurs de cette voie en mixte située sur l'aiguille des Pèlerins, devenue une référence.
Cotée extrêmement difficile, orientée au Nord cette voie était un appel pour les deux répétiteurs François Damilano et François Marsigny, perpétrant le mythe.
L'hiver dernier, c'était au tour de la génération montante de l'alpinisme, incarnée par Marion Poitevin et Sébastien Ratel, de relever le défi. Trois duos, trois expériences, trois rencontres... faisant écho à la gamme Trilogy Series.

Découvrez toute l'histoire sur:

Participez à notre tirage au sort pour gagner un week-end d'alpinisme à Chamonix:

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