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Mixed climbing

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Winter skills 4.4: climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground

Expert tips for winter climbing. Climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground.

This is one of a series of instructional films produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors), Lowe Alpine and DMM.





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Scott Adamson Sends "Santeria," Hardest Mixed Climb in Utah -- Short Version

On January 3, 2013, Scott Adamson (31) from Provo, UT sent the first ascent of Santeria in Provo Canyon, making it the hardest mixed climb in Utah.

Cinematography and post-production by Parker Alec Cross.
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Training for mixed climbing: Fundamentals

Vlog #8: Winter is coming. Are you ready? In this episode I go through the fundamentals of what I do to prepare for the mixed climbing season. Dry tooling, cardio training, and some other important points that lead the dry tooling beasts to still fail to achieve their potential on the actual winter routes.

You'll find over a decade worth of climbing performance advice and information on my blogs and in my books at

Everyday - Sarah Hueniken Climbs Mushashi (M12)

At a rating of M12, Musashi is one of the hardest mixed routes in Canada. Ten years ago, Outdoor Research Ice Climbing Ambassador and ACMG Alpine Guide Sarah Hueniken saw a video of the route being climbed by renowned climbers Will Gadd and Ben Firth. In March of 2013, she ventured into Alberta's Cineplex Cave and climbed it herself, becoming the first North American woman to successfully climb M12.

Watch Sarah's successful ascent of Musashi in Everyday, the complete film from AliasCinema.

Read an account of the climb in her own words, here:

And check out some of her favorite ice and mixed climbing apparel and gear here:

Women's Havoc Jacket --

Men's Havoc Jacket --

Mixalot Gloves --

Women's Centrifuge Jacket --

Men's Centrifuge Jacket -
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Winter Layering - Mixed Climbing in Switzerland

Kandersteg in Switzerland has long been a mecca for alpine climbers. In 2015 Rab athlete Jeff Mercier made an incredible link up of three classic mixed routes - in a single day.

Jeff relies on Rab clothing and equipment on all his projects, and in the high mountains down insulation is still the ultimate insulator.

Storm Giant: The World's Hardest Drytooling Route

The story of Gord McArthur's ascent of Storm Giant (D16), the hardest drytooling* route in the world.

*Please note that this line has been changed from 'mixed' to 'drytooling' as this route was not established as a mixed route. The route is designated with a 'D' rating to distinguish it as such. We have changed the copy to reflect this here, but cannot change the film's title. This was an oversight on our part and apologize for the confusion.
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Chere Couloir - Alpine Ice Climbing

Guiding and teaching on the Chere Couloir - this is one of the best known ice routes in the Mont Blanc Range; a modern classic that is frequently in condition. Short, steep and technically interesting, with a quick abseil descent.

2017 UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships Highlights

The best of the action from the pinnacle event of the 2017 UIAA Ice Climbing season - the biennial World Championships held in Champagny-en-Vanoise, France (4-5 February). Video produced by QTV Sports.

Extreme ice climbing - Cascade de l'Oule, France (V+, 5+)

I've been ice climbing around Grenoble for almost 20 years, and for at least 10 years I've been dreaming of the day when the waterfalls that flow down off the Saint-Hilaire du Touvet plateau would freeze up. In 2001 a cold spell allowed us to climb a number of beautiful lines, but only the upper portion of Oule Falls froze. The consistent and exceptionally cold temps over the course of recent weeks worked wonders! Every day for the last two weeks I carefully watched how the ice was forming... and then last weekend the time had finally come. Oule Falls was frozen and ready... the only problem was that I could not find a partner for Sunday!
-- Erwan Lelann


Directed by Guillaume Broust



Photography by
Chris TongViet - Nico Fabbri - Guillaume Broust - Lafouche

Soundtrack available here :
Tryad - This -
La Clak - Got no TV -
Keshty - Leave the Ground -



Get more pictures and story here :

Lead Finals l Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 l Cheongsong

UIAA and MountainTV present live coverage from day two of the Ice Climbing World Cup in Cheongsong, South Korea.

Coverage includes both the men's and women's lead finals.

Remember to subscribe for all the latest UIAA content:
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Here's How You Climb the Craziest Mixed Route in the World | Tim Emmett Diaries, Ep. 9


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Helmcken Falls is probably the hardest mixed route in the world, and we've got a front row seat to part two of Tim Emmett's attempt to climb this bad boy. Tim and his buddy Klem Premrl attempt to repeat this spectacular climb which is absolutely chock-full of insanely unreal features. Check out this stunning footage of what Helmcken Falls does best - be spectacular.

Director: Edit: Katie Schaitel
Producer: Tim Emmett, Klem Premrl, Chad Copeland, Wiktor Supinski
Athletes: Tim Emmett, Klem Premrl
Sports: Adventure, Climbing

Here's How You Climb the Craziest Mixed Route in the World | Tim Emmett Diaries, Ep. 9

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The future of Ice Climbing

Ladies and Gentlemen, you are watching the future of Ice Climbing says Liam Lonsdale about awesome Safdarian Korouyeh Mohammadreza (IRI) at the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup competition Rabenstein, Italy.
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Scottish Ice trip - Mixed climbing in Ben Nevis - Scotland

If there is one place on earth where climbers celebrate the arrival of the next snowstorm, it has to be Scotland. Each winter, pounded by the North Atlantic winds, the Scottish Highlands are covered by a layer of snow and frost at the mercy of weather conditions. Here, winter climbing has existed for more than a century, and the smell of adventure is as authentic as the whisky borne of the local peat. Climbing is done from the ground up, without bolts, and generally onsight. An introduction to the very modern ethics of Scottish mixed climbing. It's in those condition that Ueli Steck flashed the secret (X, 10), the hardest climb in Ben Nevis.

Alpine & Mountaineering: 17. Selecting Alpine Boots | Climbing Tech Tips

Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Selecting alpine boots is typically based on mountain objectives, plus conditions. Factors include weather, altitude, and terrain.

Here we look different styles and brands of popular alpine boots, with considerations for each category. Bear in mind that most of the respected alpine and mountaineering boot manufacturers offer an array of boot options, based on your objectives.

1. Lightweight or Hybrid Hiking / Approach Shoe:

- Conditions - Great for a dry alpine climbing such as summer in the California Eastern Sierra
- Pros - Sticky rubber soles, waterproof, lightweight
- The video shows a pair of shoes from the Adidas mountain series. Adidas is better known for their urban adventures. However, their shoe line-up now includes fantastic trail runners, as well as mountain kicks with integrated gaiters to keep out the scree pebbles and dirt often encountered in talus fields
- Here is more info on scree and talus fields. While some loathe having pebbles in their shoes, it can be fun to run and jump down the talus as if skiing

2. Slightly More Technical Boot:

- This category is an excellent all-around boot.
- Conditions - Great for mixed terrain and alpine climbing
- Pros - Stiff enough on the sole or “shank” to accept crampons for low angle ice or snow climbing. Can also remove crampons for alpine rock climbing in these boots up to about 5.7+
- Typically features a Vibram sole, or other proprietary lug and/or patterned sole. While lacking sticky rubber as found on lighter hybrid shoes, they do provide a climbing rand for edges and slabs
- In this video, we show a slightly more technical Lowa boot. Lowa is one of those amazing mountain boot manufacturers offering a spectrum of trail, alpine, ice, and technical mountaineering kicks. For this boot, Lowa states that minimalist concepts unite lightweight construction with a stable, low-profile design and shock-absorbing features. The result is a close-to-the-ground feel, with comfort and support
- Here is a great read on Vibram:

3. Classic Mountaineering Boot:

- Old-school favorite
- Conditions - Winter snow and ice climbing in lower elevations and general mountaineering
- Pros - This style offers a high-top with insulated leather and a very stiff shank. Includes front and rear welts for fully automatic crampons. This style of crampon attachment is often easier to attach and remove, versus lace-up-and-cinch-style crampons for boots lacking attachment welts.
- Cons - Heavy and unwieldy. With today’s technology, one can find a technical boot that is both lighter AND warmer. This type of boot doubles as the shoes needed for a Frankenstein halloween costume. However they do everything, even if a bit tiring. Even long slogs and moderate rock climbing, depending on the user. After all, this is a technical mountain boot.
- The black boot depicted in the video is an older LaSportiva

4. Technical Ice & Alpine Climbing Boot:

- Conditions - Full winter and ice climbing
This style is the future of winter alpine and mountaineering boots
- Pros - Front and rear welt for automatic crampon. Integrated gator zips up and keeps snow out. Comfortable for walking, and very warm.
- Cons - Too heavy for summer alpine, and too cold for extremely high altitudes
- Here we show another LaSportiva from Italy. LaSportiva is often one of our favorite boots, based on the shape of their foot bed and their precision, across all their technical footwear

5. High Altitude Boot:

- Typically these boots are selected for high altitude mountaineering or extreme cold weather, such as on Denali in Alaska, or in the Himalayas of Nepal
- Pros - Features a “double boot” or even a plastic boot, with inner liner
- Conditions - High altitude peaks
- This is an entirely different class of technical mountain boot, and is NOT depicted in this video

Know your objective, choose the boot that fits your needs, and have fun!


We hope you found this video helpful.

Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!

What is Mixed Climbing? Winter Climb on the Cosmique Arete Chamonix

Mixed Climbing uses all the basics from rock climbing, ice climbing and mountaineering. Join Live Big host Patrick Sweeney on the world famous Cosmique Arete in Chamonix France as he learns from one of the world's top mountaineers - Jon Bracey on how to do this tricky winter ascent of the world's most famous mixed climb.

For more Living Big follow Patrick on:

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And leave a comment below about what you liked, didn't like or what adventures you want to see next!
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The Remarkables - Where we Belong - Mixed Climbing Friday's Fool

This movie retraces the first ascent of Friday's Fool, a steep mixed (rock + ice) climb on the front face of The Remarkables high above Queenstown in New Zealand.
Months of editing, filming, interviewing local climbers and taking pictures should hopefully give a sense to what climbing on The Remarkables is about!
This movie is dedicated to Howie Mcghie, whose love for the mountains, the outdoors shined through his life, so here is to Howie , a humble, generous and enthusiastic mountaineer. This movie would not have been possible without him.

Ice Climbing a 1,000-ft Waterfall | Ultimate Rush

Ice climber Harald Berger has waited patiently for one of Austria’s most awe-inspiring waterfalls to freeze over. ‘The Supervisor’ is as high as the Eiffel Tower.

Ice Climbing Beside an Active Waterfall

Super-climber Will Gadd attacks the world's most challenging mixed climb: Canada's Helmcken Falls. On February 11th, Will Gadd and his team successfully reached the top of the Falls in British Colombia, Canada, after an exhausting and icy eight-hour climb. The route is considered to be the toughest mixed ice route in the world.
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Mixed Climbing Man Machine Greg Boswell | Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2



Climbing doesn't really pay, so he drives a tractor to get paid so that he can buy the gas to drive himself to the climbing spots. That's dedication.
Best of Britain episode two follows top winter climber Greg Boswell. Greg spends his summers working on a Scottish farm and his winters climbing hard routes in the mountains. Somewhere in between he trains by dry tooling both in a farm out building and at the UK's premiere dry tooling crag, The Tube at Newtyle Quarry.


British Climber Profile: Greg Boswell | Best of British - Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2

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BMG How to sharpen an ice axe pick for mixed climbing

Ice pick sharpening technique for mixed rock and ice climbing.

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