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Mixed climbing

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Scottish winter climbing: Orion Face Direct (V, 5)

In one legendary week on Ben Nevis in 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith climbed six first winter ascents on consecutive days, including the mini Alpine-route, Orion Face Direct. They also made the first one-day winter ascent of Point Five Gully, went for a long walk and got arrested over an incident with some dominoes! Exactly 50 years later Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner pay tribute to Smith and Marshall by setting out to repeat all the routes that were climbed in that famous week. This film tells the story of the original events and follows MacLeod and Turner as they discover exactly what an achievement it was.

This short film about Orion Face Direct is an extract from The Pinnacle, a film by Hotaches


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Niederer Dachstein - Mixed Climbing

Nach dem Aufstieg aud den Dachstein Gletscher von der Raumsauer Seite, gingen wir auf der Gletscherautobahn bis kurz vor die Steinerscharte. In der kleinen südlich gelegenen Scharte startet der Nordwestgrat auf den Niederen Dachstein. Die Kletterei befindet sich meisten im 2. Schwierigkeitsgrad (UIAA) mit kurzen Stellen (2x) 3+ UIAA. Bei uns waren die Bedingungen schwierig, da der Fels großteils von nicht haltendem Eis und Schnee überzogen war. Die meisten von den wenigen Bohrhaken konnten wir dadurch nicht finden und mobile Absicherungen zu setzen war eine große Herausforderung, da der Fels (und entsprechende Spalten) einfach oft nicht sichtbar waren. Trotzdem war die Tour sehr interessant und landschaftlich spektakulär. Im zweiten Teil geht es immer schön auf dem spitzen Grat entlang Bohrhaken sind auch öfter zu finden.
Der Abstieg ging vorherst am Grat weiter Richtung Hoher Dachstein und kurz nach einem kleinen Kamin, der abgeklettert werden muss ist eine Abseilpiste eingerichtet. In dieser Linien befinden sich nicht nur einige Abseilringe, sodass sich 30m abseilen ausgeht, sondern auch noch ein paar Bohrhaken. Hier könnte notfalls auch abgeklettert werden (was wir nicht empfehlen können).
Durch die schwierigen Bedingungen und das dadurch kaum mögliche Absichern, brauchten wir für den Grat bis auf den Gipfel ca. 4 Stunden.
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Scott Adamson Sends Santeria, Hardest Mixed Climb in Utah -- Short Version

On January 3, 2013, Scott Adamson (31) from Provo, UT sent the first ascent of Santeria in Provo Canyon, making it the hardest mixed climb in Utah.

Cinematography and post-production by Parker Alec Cross.
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Storm Giant: The World's Hardest Drytooling Route

The story of Gord McArthur's ascent of Storm Giant (D16), the hardest drytooling* route in the world.

*Please note that this line has been changed from 'mixed' to 'drytooling' as this route was not established as a mixed route. The route is designated with a 'D' rating to distinguish it as such. We have changed the copy to reflect this here, but cannot change the film's title. This was an oversight on our part and apologize for the confusion.
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How To Place An Ice Axe Like A Boss: Ice Climbing | Climbing Daily, Ep. 668



For all your latest climbing gear head to:

In the third instalment of our new ice climbing series on Climbing Daily, we talk to mountain guide Isabelle Santoire, who goes through some basic technique for placing ice axes.

Check back next week for part four, when we’ll be taking a more in-depth look at ice climbing technique.

Find out more about our product of the week, the Boreal Lynx,

How To Place An Ice Axe Like A Boss: Ice Climbing | Climbing Daily, Ep. 668

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The Remarkables - Where we Belong - Mixed Climbing Friday's Fool

This movie retraces the first ascent of Friday's Fool, a steep mixed (rock + ice) climb on the front face of The Remarkables high above Queenstown in New Zealand.
Months of editing, filming, interviewing local climbers and taking pictures should hopefully give a sense to what climbing on The Remarkables is about!
This movie is dedicated to Howie Mcghie, whose love for the mountains, the outdoors shined through his life, so here is to Howie , a humble, generous and enthusiastic mountaineer. This movie would not have been possible without him.

Scottish Ice trip - Mixed climbing in Ben Nevis - Scotland

If there is one place on earth where climbers celebrate the arrival of the next snowstorm, it has to be Scotland. Each winter, pounded by the North Atlantic winds, the Scottish Highlands are covered by a layer of snow and frost at the mercy of weather conditions. Here, winter climbing has existed for more than a century, and the smell of adventure is as authentic as the whisky borne of the local peat. Climbing is done from the ground up, without bolts, and generally onsight. An introduction to the very modern ethics of Scottish mixed climbing. It's in those condition that Ueli Steck flashed the secret (X, 10), the hardest climb in Ben Nevis.

Pinocchio, delicate mixed climbing in Mont Blanc du Tacul

Nicolas Preitner & Jon Murua
Pinocchio, Mont Blanc du Tacul
4,248m ED M6+

Winter ascend of this delicate and sustained mixed climbing route.

Date: 2.2.2020

8h10 Chamonix
9h30 Start climbing
11h15 R4
14h30 summit
15h30 start skiing down
16h40 Montenvers
18h30 Chamonix

Transcript:
They say that Pinocchio is one of the most beautiful mixed climbing routes in the Alps, when it's in good conditions.
Having good conditions is very rare though. It is generally dry making it hard and delicate.

That wouldn't stop us.
We heard that it was climbed a month ago and we were very motivated to give it a go.

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This route, like many others in Mont Blanc de Tacul has the advantage of being easy to access and if things go wrong, it is also easy to bail by rappelling the same route.

That reduces the engagement and also the weight to carry as the backpack can be left at the bottom of the route with the skis.

Pinocchio is hard. It is hard and sustained. It is classified as a extremely hard route and in fact it's one of the hardest routes I've climbed.

It is delicate, steep and not easy to protect either. It is sustained on the M6 with many overhanging moves making it also a bit physical. What a combo!

The second pitch set the scene already with a very tricky overhanging move with nothing to hold on to. Well done Nicolas for leading that!
I can tell that this pitch would had been much easier with some ice.

The third pitch goes through a very serious roof which we climb using the slab on the left.
Yes, we climb slab with crampons. That was delicate and physical!

The following pitches felt a bit easier; probably because we were already very focused and full of adrenaline.
However, these pitches were the hardest to protect. There was a tiny little layer of ice, making it pleasant to climb, but it wasn't thick enough to place ice screws. That same ice was hiding the crack where we would otherwise place some micro cams.

We climbed smoothly up until the last pitch. It happens that the last pitch is the crux. Long and sustained M6+.
There are 2 options here. The right hand side through the steep snow or the dry and delicate overhanging goulotte on the left.

I tried going through the snow initially.
I tried.
I tried but I didn't feel like engaging with that amount of inconsistent snow.
This snow requires a significant effort to clean and it feels very insecure.

Plan B.

The overhanging and delicate goulotte on the left.

There was not much ice, neither many options to place protection.
I climbed slowly, very focused, taking rests where I could.

One roof after another.
Making stein pulls at 4K metres and holding on milimetric edges.
Scraping the ice and hammering the ice axes to break as little ice as possible.
I must admit this is not easy in overhanging terrain and specially in these thin cracks where this is not much space to swing.

We climbed the whole route in about 5 hours.
That is an average of 30 minutes per pitch.
That is extremely fast!

It's also quite unusual for me to finish that early and have the chance to descend la valle blanche with sunlight.

The rappels were straight forward on the route itself and we managed to get to the bottom safely.
It was fascinating to see how steep and delicate this route is while abseiling.


Gear used:
Helmet: Petzl Sirocco
Ropes: Mammut Genesis Dry 2x60m
Ice axes: Petzl Ergo
Crampons: Petzl Dart
Boots: La Sportiva G5
Harness: Mammut Zephyr Alpine
Gloves: Simond Cascade, Black Diamond Soloist
Belay plate: Petzl Reverso
Backpack: Mammut trion light 38l
Camera: GoPro Session 5
Music Credit:

Mixed Climbing Man Machine Greg Boswell | Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2



Climbing doesn't really pay, so he drives a tractor to get paid so that he can buy the gas to drive himself to the climbing spots. That's dedication.
Best of Britain episode two follows top winter climber Greg Boswell. Greg spends his summers working on a Scottish farm and his winters climbing hard routes in the mountains. Somewhere in between he trains by dry tooling both in a farm out building and at the UK's premiere dry tooling crag, The Tube at Newtyle Quarry.


British Climber Profile: Greg Boswell | Best of British - Britain's Best Climbers, Ep. 2

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Winter skills 4.4: climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground

Expert tips for winter climbing. Climbing and protecting steeper mixed ground.

This is one of a series of instructional films produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors), Lowe Alpine and DMM.

WATCH: 32 winter skills films in our playlist:





#iceclimbing #mountaineering

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Everyday - Sarah Hueniken Climbs Mushashi (M12)

At a rating of M12, Musashi is one of the hardest mixed routes in Canada. Ten years ago, Outdoor Research Ice Climbing Ambassador and ACMG Alpine Guide Sarah Hueniken saw a video of the route being climbed by renowned climbers Will Gadd and Ben Firth. In March of 2013, she ventured into Alberta's Cineplex Cave and climbed it herself, becoming the first North American woman to successfully climb M12.

Watch Sarah's successful ascent of Musashi in Everyday, the complete film from AliasCinema.

Read an account of the climb in her own words, here:

And check out some of her favorite ice and mixed climbing apparel and gear here:

Women's Havoc Jacket --

Men's Havoc Jacket --

Mixalot Gloves --

Women's Centrifuge Jacket --

Men's Centrifuge Jacket -

Winter Layering - Mixed Climbing in Switzerland | Alpine Climbing | Jeff Mercier | Rab Equipment

Kandersteg in Switzerland has long been a mecca for alpine climbers. Back inn 2015, Rab athlete Jeff Mercier made an incredible link up of three classic mixed routes - in a single day.

Jeff relies on Rab clothing and equipment on all his projects, and in the high mountains down insulation is still the ultimate insulator.

Rab Athlete Profile:

Training for mixed climbing: Fundamentals

Vlog #8: Winter is coming. Are you ready? In this episode I go through the fundamentals of what I do to prepare for the mixed climbing season. Dry tooling, cardio training, and some other important points that lead the dry tooling beasts to still fail to achieve their potential on the actual winter routes.

You'll find over a decade worth of climbing performance advice and information on my blogs and in my books at

Dani Arnold: free solo ice climb of Beta Block Super

Kandersteg ice climbing 300 m WI 7.
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Modica-Noury - ice & mixed climbing on Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix

Climbing the popular ice goulotte Modica-Noury on the north face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix. Skiing out via the Vallee Blanche.
Climbed by Alastair McDowell & Jon Murua on March 2nd 2019.
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Scottish winter: first ascent of Making the Cut (VII, 8) Beinn Eighe

A film from the BMC International Winter Meet 2014. With 44 guests from 26 countries, for many it was a unique experience. In this film: Making the Cut VII,8 Beinn Eighe, first ascent.

A film by James Dunn -

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Early Season Scottish Mixed Climbing

Winter 2012 an early season raid from North Wales. 3 day, 3 good climbs and great conditions. The Crack, Time Traveler and Ventricle.

Swift Blade - steadfast in the Canadian Winter

Tanja Schmitt, Heike Schmitt and Matthias Scherer arrived on October 21st 2019in the Canadian Rockies. In 40 days they climbed 30 days ice and mixed. This film features two lines of all the climbs they did during that ice trip : 'French Reality' and 'Killer Pillar', both on the Stanley Headwall.
Conditions were severe with low temperatures and fresh formed ice. The last pitch of 'French Reality' - the crux ice pitch (WI 6+) - had seen no ascent before that season...
A full report and reflections about this trip can be read on:

COME AND GET IT - Matt Cornell & Conrad Anker - Hyalite Canyon

Come and Get it is a story about the new generation dirtbag climber Matt Cornell soloing one of the hardest mixed climbing routes in Hyalite Canyon. His story of accomplishment is expounded upon by Conrad Anker, as he provides context into the difficulty and notoriety of the route. Together, the two have worked through the route to make it a success. Hold Fast.

FEATURING: Matt Cornell & Conrad Anker

DIRECTED BY: Nathan Norby
AERIAL CINEMATOGRAPHY: Nate Kenney
MUSIC: Left on Tenth and Artlist.io
RIGGING AND SUPPORT: Matt Hopkins
More - nathannorby.com

Angelika Rainer Mixed Climbing Canada

Berghaus athlete Angelika Rainer visited Canada for some mixed climbing recently and ticked quite a few things off her Adventure List, including:
Open American Championship in Bozeman -- Winner
The caveman -- M10
Fire Roasted JC's Rig -- M10
Steel Koan -- M13+

Take a look at her full blog here:

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