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Aid climbing

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Basic Aid Climbing Leading Technique - How To Big Wall Climb

A companion to the book How To Big Wall Climb which details how to go from the very basics to the summit of El Capitan.

The Aid Climbing Rant

Chris Kalous gives us the low down on hard aid climbing. In case you don't get it, it's supposed to be a joke! As in funny! So laugh, and stop taking it so seriously. Freakin aid climbers. Sheesh.
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How to Big Wall Climb - Basic Aid Climbing Technique

In this SuperTopo how to big wall climb article, Chris McNamara shows the basic technique for moving efficiently move up the piece while aid climbing. For more info on aid climbing and big wall gear, check out

Aid Climbing leading on steep terrain - How To Big Wall Climb

A companion to the book How To Big Wall Climb which details how to go from the very basics to the summit of El Capitan.
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AZAZEL - Big wall aid-climbing in Pakistan

Azazel is the story of 4 friends who go to Pakistan to put up a new route on the Trango Pulpit, a 6000m peak. They spent 20 days on the wall and it's a great story of friendship.
Featuring, Yann Mimet, Martial Dumas, Sam Beaugey and Jean-Yves Fredriksen.

Written & directed by Guillaume Broust

Hazard 8A5

Vysoké Tatry Veža Veľkého Kostola 2-3.3.2013
Aid climbing in High Tatras
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Reticent Wall – Trailer

One of the world’s most respected alpinists, Slovenian Tomaz Humar solo climbing one of the hardest technical routes in the world, Reticent Wall (A5) on El Capitan at Yosemite.

The Jury at the 2001 Trento Film Festival commented:

‘Tomaz Humar exemplifies the leading edge of today’s alpinism. The film shows both a perspective of super alpinism and difficult technical rock climbing.To solve the most difficult and dangerous aid route on A5 Reticent Wall, on El Cap shows a tenacity and diversity most climbers only aspire to.'

This was the infamous Solvenian's first encounter with granite big-walling, and he became the first non-American to conquer the Reticent Wall. In doing so he faced some adversity, the majority, according to Humar, from local climbers...
'Another problem I encountered was with the local climbers: no one wanted to help me in any way whatsoever, perhaps because I was there for the first time and nevertheless wanted to climb the route solo. They didn't give me any useful information about the route, perhaps because they didn't think I would succeed. I'm proud of the fact that I'm the first European to repeat this route and I must thank the Canadians who, having climbed the route prior to me, were the only ones who gave me precise info about the route.'

Humar was unfailing controversial, and this film of his ascent adds to the history, or mythology surrounding this extremely talented alpinist.

Available to download and rent from the SteepEdge website:

Aid Climbing

Aid Climbing The Glass Menagerie

Sleeping on the wall at The Glass Menagerie, Looking Glass, North Carolina, USA.

This was a fantastic climb but we had a late start due to getting lost and end up bivy'ing lower than we planned. First aid climb and first time sleeping on the wall.

Most of the aid climbing has been edited out, but if you would like to see a full sequence that a novice like me uses, go to 7:15.

Guide:

WINGS OF WARREN A4 Whitney Portal

Aid Climbing
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Following and jumaring basics for aid climbers - How To Big Wall Climb

A companion to the book How To Big Wall Climb which details how to go from the very basics to the summit of El Capitan.

Yosemite, Iron Hawk Part 4

Big wall climb Iron Hawk on El Capitan. Day 2, shows the knife blade traverse from both sides. This is footage for big wall video that was never produced.
1999
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Aid Climbing Fall on The Glass Menagerie

I was solo aid climbing The Glass Menagerie in North Carolina when a cam hook popped out of its placement. I was on the second (variation) pitch and I was trying to link up pitches 1 through 4 with a 70m rope. My first unintentional fall on my solo device!

The second time round I did the same move, but placed the cam hook ever so slightly differently, and moved a lot quieter!

I free climbed the first pitch at 5.11a with an aid move past the 5.11d section. Then tagged up the rest of my gear and climbed the second pitch C2+. I linked straight on to the third (fourth for normal GM route) and set the portaledge up just below the roof. It took 23 draws, 17 cams and 8 nuts to link all the pitches.

Following / jumaring steep rock when aid climbing - How To Big Wall Climb

A companion to the book How To Big Wall Climb which details how to go from the very basics to the summit of El Capitan.

Aid Climbing - Le Conte Boulder / Korr Roof Training Ladder

Michael Richards climbing the Le Conte Boulder in Yosemite Valley, CA. This is the Korr Roof Aid Training Ladder located across the road from the Housekeeping Camp and adjacent to the Le Conte Memorial. Fun little climb, tagged a rope up behind me to rappel off the thing once reaching the top.
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Big Wall Rock Climbing, El Capitan

Big Wall Rock Climbing, El Capitan, Yosemite
Pass the Pitons Pete solo climbs Native Son.

Part 1

Aid climbing and base-jumping in Pakistan - Trago Tower - "Azazel" with Planet Big Wall

Azazel is the story of 4 friends who go to Pakistan to put up a new route on the Trango Pulpit, a 6000m peak. They spent 20 days on the wall and it's a great story of friendship.
Featuring, Yann Mimet, Martial Dumas, Sam Beaugey and Jean-Yves Fredriksen.

Azazel c'est l'histoire de 4 copains qui partent au Pakistan et ouvrent une voie qui restera dans leur cœur, sur la chaire de Trango, un 6000m. Yann Mimet, Martial Dumas, Sam Beaugey and Jean-Yves Fredriksen ont passé 20 jours en paroi et Sam a fait une descente un peu moins longue que ses petits camarades...
Film réalisé avec l'association Planet Big-Wall

Rope Access Pehlivanov Aid climbing, pull test Grosvenor House Apartments

Rope Access Pehlivanov Aid climbing, pull test

Hauling Technique when Aid Climbing - How To Big Wall Climb

A companion to the book How To Big Wall Climb which details how to go from the very basics to the summit of El Capitan.

Aiding Pucker Power A3 - Riverside Quarry

Aid climbing the second pitch of Pucker Power A3 at Riverside Quarry. Very short, 4-5 moves max once you hit the actual wall after an easy slab traverse. Not the most inspiring pro though and rotten rock.

(Free traverse, 1/4 button head, wire hanger on rivet, arrow, fixed RURP, Tomahawk, Hook, Hook, Free move, the monkeys are sending.)

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